Results for "headlight voltage"

Electrical Medium 1-2 hours 119 👍 0

How to Fix RV Rear Brake Lights and Hazards Not Working - Common Grounds & Connections

Spent months planning our cross-country trip leaving next week and my RV's rear brake lights and hazards just completely stopped working. My 1998 National Tropical (on a '97 Ford F53 chassis with the trusty 460 V8) has decided to get creative with its lighting situation. The rear brake lights and 4-way hazards have completely given up the ghost - nothing, nada, zero response from the back end. But plot twist: the turn signals work just fine back there, and everything up front (brake lights, hazards, turns) is working perfectly.

I'm scratching my head because if it was a fuse issue, wouldn't ALL the lights be affected? The fact that some work and others don't has me thinking it's something more specific. Any ideas where I should start poking around to solve this electrical mystery? …more

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Electrical Medium 4-6 hours for complete installation 114 👍 0

F53 Triton V10 High Output Alternator Upgrade - 250A Install

Before I drop $800 on having a shop install a 250A high output alternator on my mid-2000s F53 Triton V10, wondering if this is something I can DIY without breaking anything. I need to upgrade from the stock alternator to handle a large inverter battery bank, and I'm looking at high-output units in the 250A range.

I found this Tucson alternator that puts out 190A at idle for under $500, but I'm worried about whether the existing wiring and belt system can handle it safely. Could I damage the engine or electrical system if I just swap it in? What upgrades would I absolutely need to do this safely?

I've worked with high-output alternators on boats before, but RV chassis systems seem different and I don't want to create a fire hazard or burn out expensive components. Has anyone successfully done this upgrade without major issues? …more

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Electrical Medium 2-4 hours 113 👍 0

Ford F53 V10 Cam Sensor No Start: Step-by-Step Repair Guide 2024

Somewhere between last week's torrential downpour and this morning, my 2014 Bounder Classic 36H with the 2013 Ford F53 V10 chassis developed what appears to be a cam sensor failure preventing startup. The engine cranks over strong but absolutely will not start. I've been chasing this for weeks and I'm really hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Here's what I know: Forscan is showing cam sensor faults while cranking, even after I replaced the cam sensor. I've got fuel pressure, the crank sensor is new, and there are no stored codes. The tachometer moves during cranking attempts, so I know I'm getting some signal. After crank attempts, there's a strong fuel smell. I've disconnected the battery ground for over 5 minutes to reset any hanging codes.

I'm starting to suspect this might be a wiring harness issue or possibly something with the timing chain. I have a tone generator on the way to check for potential wire breaks. The frustrating part is that everything seems like it should work, but it's like the PCM isn't getting the right timing information.

I really need guidance on the most likely culprits for cam sensor faults on these V10s. What should I be focusing on to get this thing running again? …more

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Electrical Medium 30 minutes 108 👍 0

2017 Ford E450 Alternator Output: Complete DC to DC Charger Sizing Guide for RVs

Somewhere between installing my DC to DC charger and realizing I don't know my 2017 Ford E450's alternator output, I'm wondering if this setup could be dangerous with my kids living in our RV full-time? I've been down every rabbit hole - VIN lookups, parts catalogs, service manuals - and I keep getting conflicting information or just replacement part numbers instead of actual specifications.

I'm planning to install a DC to DC charger for my LiFePO4 house batteries, but I absolutely need to know the real alternator output before I size the charger. I've seen everything from 120 amps to over 200 amps mentioned for the E450, but nothing definitive for my specific year and configuration.

Can someone please tell me what the actual alternator rating is for the 2017 E450, and more importantly, what size DC to DC charger I can safely run without overloading the alternator? I really don't want to fry anything, but I also don't want to undersize the charger if I have more capacity available than I think. …more

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Electrical Medium 2-4 hours 106 👍 0

How to Fix Dashboard Gauges & Lights Not Working - 1999 Monaco La Palma F53 RV Troubleshooting

Our 1999 Monaco La Palma F53's dashboard gauges and lights are completely dead — can't afford a $300+ shop diagnosis, is there a DIY fix for under $50? No power getting to fuses #6 and #12 in the driver-side fuse box under the dash.

What's the most common cause of this issue and what should I check first? Looking for the right troubleshooting sequence to track down whether it's a relay problem or power supply issue. …more

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Electrical Medium 1-2 hours 105 👍 0

1991 Ford E350 Winnebago Battery Ground Wire Location: Complete Troubleshooting Guide

Wondering if anyone else has dealt with corroded battery cables on their Class A before — replaced them easily last time, but this 1991 Ford E350 Winnebago's ground wire location has me completely stumped. I've traced the ground cable to a tie strap on the fender, but that's obviously just a routing point, not the actual termination.

Where does the battery ground cable actually terminate on these E350 chassis? Need to find the real connection point so I can clean it properly and install the replacement cable with a solid ground connection. …more

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Electrical Medium 1-2 hours 102 👍 0

Ford F53 Chassis Marker Light Problems: Complete RV Troubleshooting Guide

Nobody wants to deal with the same front marker light issues on their 2013 Forest River Georgetown 377XL's Ford F53 chassis every single camping season.

The lights work sometimes but not others, and I can't figure out the pattern. I've already checked fuses and replaced the bulbs, but I'm hesitant to start pulling apart wiring without knowing what I'm doing. I keep reading about electrical problems getting worse if you don't fix them right, and I really don't want to create a bigger issue.

What are the most likely causes for intermittent marker light failures on F53 chassis? I'm hoping there's a systematic way to troubleshoot this without risking damage to the electrical system. …more

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Engine Medium 2-3 hours 99 👍 0

How to Fix Ford RV Headlight Low Voltage (10.3V Under Load) - Complete Diagnostic Guide

Apparently replacing the headlight relay, cleaning all ground connections, and checking alternator output means nothing when my 2000 Fleetwood Southwind Ford V-10 still drops to 10.3V under headlight load. The headlights have been consistently dim despite replacing the bulbs. My multimeter readings show 12.5V at the headlight connector when disconnected, but this drops to 10.3V when the headlight is plugged in and operating.

This 2.2V drop under load seems excessive and correlates with the poor light output I'm experiencing. What causes this level of voltage drop in RV headlight circuits, and does this require immediate repair for safety reasons? …more

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Electrical Medium 30 min 99 👍 0

Ford V10 RV No Crank Intermittent Starting Issue Solutions

Opened the hood expecting to find the same starter solenoid issue that plagued my old gas motorhome — but my 2020 Fleetwood Bounder 33C with the Ford V10 keeps doing it. For the past few months, I've been dealing with this really frustrating intermittent starting problem where I turn the key and get dash lights but absolutely no cranking from the starter.

The weird thing is it's not consistent - sometimes it starts right up, other times I'll sit there for 20-30 minutes trying and then suddenly it'll fire right up like nothing was wrong. I've already replaced the ignition switch and even the starter/solenoid thinking that would fix it, but I'm still having the same issue. Battery tests good at 13.4 volts and it doesn't matter if I'm plugged into shore power or running the generator.

I'm kind of at a loss here and don't want to keep throwing parts at it. Could this be something with heat affecting an electrical component since it seems to work after sitting for a while? What should I be looking at next? …more

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Electrical Medium 1-2 hours 99 👍 0

RV LED Clearance Lights Turn Off When Headlights On - Grounding Fix Guide

Replaced all the clearance lights on my 2002 Bounder 39Z Diesel with LEDs yesterday but something still doesn't seem right — they work perfectly with the clearance light switch but shut off completely when I turn on the headlights. But the moment I turn on the headlights, every single LED clearance light goes dark! This is driving me crazy - the old incandescent bulbs never did this.

I've checked the fuses, swapped out different LED bulbs, and even tested the voltage at the fixtures. Everything seems fine until those headlights come on. I'm really hoping someone has seen this before because I'm running out of ideas. What could cause brand new LED clearance lights to shut off only when the headlights activate? …more

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Electrical Medium 2-3 hours 99 👍 0

How to Wire LED Halo Headlights to F53 Chassis DRL System - Complete Guide

During every spring prep on my 2005 F53 chassis RV, those damn DRL wires for my LED halo headlights leave me completely stumped again. I've upgraded to LED headlights with built-in halos on my Safari Simba, and I desperately want to connect those halos to work with the existing daytime running light system instead of having the DRLs run through the main headlight beams.

I know there are DRL relays and the parking brake cutout that I need to stay downstream from, but I'm completely lost trying to trace these wires through all the looms and bundles. The headlight uses a standard H4 connector, and the halo has its own separate positive wire that needs 12V when the DRLs should be active.

Can someone please tell me which specific wire at the headlight connector carries the DRL output signal? I really hope there's a straightforward way to tap into this without messing up the existing relay control system! …more

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Engine Medium 45 minutes 93 👍 0

1995 Ford F53 460 Engine Stalling: How to Replace Ignition Control Module for RV Reliability

Woke up this morning hoping my 1995 F53 motorhome with the 460 7.5L would run smooth after replacing the ignition control module yesterday, but it's still stalling randomly. It keeps stalling every time I come to a stop - literally dies on me at around 5mph just as I'm braking. The power steering goes out and it's a real struggle to get stopped safely.

I can restart it immediately and it runs fine as long as I keep giving it gas, but this happens at EVERY stop sign and red light. Currently, it won't start at all - just cranks with no spark. I previously had an EGR code 334 that went away after replacing the EVR sensor.

My fuel pressure gauge was showing 30-32 psi at idle and about 40 psi at wide open throttle. When I tested the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, no fuel spilled out and the pressure didn't change.

I've already replaced many parts (including distributor cap, plugs, wires, EGR valve, ICM, fuel pressure regulator) with only 2,000 miles on them. I discovered that swapping the ignition control module seems to temporarily fix the issue - it starts with a new ICM but dies when I return to the original one.

I'm really concerned about potential highway driving with these intermittent starting problems. Is this a common issue with these 460 engines? …more

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Electrical Medium 2-3 hours 89 👍 0

Ford Triton V10 Parasitic Draw Fix: Complete Diagnosis Guide for RV Owners

Between storage seasons and spring startup, my 2006 Southwind with Ford Triton V10 keeps developing the same parasitic draw that kills my battery. After sitting a few days, battery drops to 11.3V. Main symptom: when I turn key off and remove it, power still flows to dash gauges. Needles flicker and I hear buzzing for several seconds after key removal.

Is this a failed ignition switch or could it be stuck relays? What's the proper way to test and confirm the cause before replacing parts? …more

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Electrical Medium 2-3 hours 82 👍 0

Ford F550 RV Brake Controller Wiring: Fixing Red Wire Connection Issues Safely

About a week after that heavy rain, my 2002 Itasca Sunrise 34D with Ford F550 chassis is giving me classic Ford wiring headaches while installing this Tekonsha Primus IQ brake controller. I've got the controller harness with bare wires ready to splice in, but I'm stumped on where to connect that red stoplight wire safely.

The Tekonsha documentation warns about older Fords having weird ground-switching brake circuits that'll fry your controller if you connect wrong. They specifically mention avoiding brake pedal switch wires that go 12V hot when pressed but drop to ground when released - which could kill the controller during manual override.

My brake pedal switch has four cables: a light green (12V hot when pressed/ground when released), light green with red stripe (constant 12V), blue with black stripe, and black with blue stripe. As an electrician familiar with 12V systems, I need to know the safe spot to tap into for the stoplight signal on these F550s without risking controller damage. …more

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