Results for "90029"

Halfway through draining my Atwood GC10A-4E's supposed 10-gallon capacity, the water's already running cold but my gauge shows I've only pulled maybe 6 gallons. Are there any dual-fuel tankless units that would work as a replacement? I know there's no plug-and-play option, but what are the best tankless water heaters that offer both gas and electric operation for RVs? …more

Three different RV shops quoted me $400+ to fix my Suburban water heater's pilot light that won't stay lit and I'm wondering if I can tackle this thermocouple issue myself. the pilot lights up just fine, but the second I let go of that button it dies. I can hold it down for like a minute and think I've got it, but nope - releases and it's gone.

I'm wondering if this is one of those thermocouple things I keep hearing about? Like, is that the little sensor thingy that's supposed to keep the gas flowing when there's a flame? Pretty sure that's what's acting up but want to make sure before I start messing with it. …more

Three tools deep into this project and I'm determined to add electric capability to my Suburban water heater with cast iron tank myself — where's the best starting point? Problem is, most conversion kits I'm seeing want to replace the anode rod port with the heating element. That seems like a bad idea for a cast iron tank - pretty sure I need that anode rod to keep things from corroding, right?

Anyone know if there are kits out there that let you keep the anode rod? Maybe something that goes in the drain port instead, or one of those combo deals where the element also acts as an anode? Just want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for a rusty mess down the road! …more

Nobody can explain why my pressure gauge reads 150 PSI at the Atwood 90029 mixing valve when every manual says it should max out at 125 PSI. My Atwood water heater has been sitting unused for about 8 months, and now I've discovered the mixing valve (part #90029) has developed a slow drip.

I'm wondering if this is something I can fix myself or if I need to replace the whole valve? I've heard something about O-rings going bad during storage, but I'm not sure if it's worth trying to rebuild it or just bite the bullet and get a new one. Any advice on the best approach would be really appreciated! …more

Called a repair shop about my 2018 Atwood RV water heater that's 6 years old and constantly throwing safety sensor errors — repair or replace? When I was troubleshooting a non-working 120V element, I discovered that the safety sensors don't seem to be making proper contact with the tank anymore. The foam padding that's supposed to hold them against the tank has completely deteriorated and is bulging out.

This seems like it could be a serious safety issue - aren't those sensors supposed to prevent overheating? I'm scared to use the water heater until I know it's safe. I've found an Atwood XT gas/electric model that seems similar to my current unit, which costs under $100. However, I need to confirm if it has the vent on the upper left corner as you look at it. Can I fix this myself by replacing the foam, or do I need to replace the whole unit? What kind of material should I use if I can repair it? I don't want to make things worse or create a fire hazard. …more